In recent years, the cosmetics market has witnessed a growing consumer awareness of the damage caused by prolonged exposure to the sun and, thus, the importance of sun protection.
This trend is also clearly evidenced by data that predicts a growth of the global sunscreen market from $14.10 billion in 2023 to $20.50 billion by 2033, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 3.81%.
For today's increasingly informed consumers, simple sunburn prevention is no longer the only priority when deciding which sunscreen product to buy. Buyers are looking for solutions that offer comprehensive protection against all forms of radiation. In addition, there is a growing interest in products that are customised according to specific needs and preferences, such as age or gender, but also in products that are environmentally friendly and particularly sea-friendly.
Source: Innova Market Insights, "What’s Trending in Sun Care - Global", December 2023
In this context, sun care production becomes a challenge: manufacturers must be prepared, with formulations and product positioning strategies capable of meeting new consumer demands, in order not to fall behind in the market.
Biofarma Group has been active for years in the development and production of cosmetics, including sun care target products, with the aim of creating effective and safe solutions that meet the most diverse needs of final consumers. Working with this in mind does not only mean balancing UVA and UVB filters correctly, but many other factors must be taken into consideration: new market trends and regulatory restrictions, as well as the limits and advantages of possible formulations.
The process that leads to the creation of a sunscreen product is therefore complex and requires important specific skills and cutting-edge technological and production capabilities.
The creation of a sun care product starts with the formulation and in particular the definition of its characteristics, which are generally based on market demands.
So what are the most important properties required in a sun care product today?
It all starts with protection: in addition to favouring formulations with increasingly high SPF values, consumers are demanding broad-spectrum sun protection, i.e. a product that not only provides shielding against UV radiation (which accounts for only 5% of the radiation reaching the earth's surface), but also protection against infrared (IR) and visible radiation. For this reason, references to IR protection and blue light (part of the visible radiation) are increasingly being stated on the label. However, from a formulation point of view, specific sunscreens are not available for the latter, therefore functional substances are chosen to counteract the damage induced by exposure to radiation characterised by these wavelengths.
In addition to effective sun protection, however, consumers also look for other benefits in the products. Popular claims include: moisturising sunscreen, sunscreen for sensitive skin, products with antioxidant effects, formulations containing vitamins and minerals, a brightening sunscreen and finally sunscreen with anti-ageing properties.
Furthermore, in this period marked by a deep global environmental crisis, another relevant trend is the development of natural formulas that are not harmful to the sea ecosystem.
To guarantee this requirement, much attention is paid to the choice of filters to be used. But this is not the only aspect: naturally derived ingredients are also preferred, both in terms of polymers, esters and oils, while emulsifiers must not be ethoxylated.
Finally, another important property demanded in sunscreen products is water resistance declined in: Water Resistant (WR) or Very Water Resistant (VWR). A water-resistant sunscreen makes it possible to maintain protection even after swimming in the sea; furthermore, the reduced washout of sunscreens also protects the environment, as it reduces the amount of substances that end up directly in the water. From a formulation point of view, in order to pass the test that allows the attribution of these WR or VWR properties, it is not enough to include a polymer in the product that confers this characteristic, but attention must be paid to the choice of ingredients and the type of formula. In this respect, A/O emulsions are certainly better performers than O/A emulsions, the system must not contain emulsifiers with too high a degree of hydrophilicity and water-soluble sunscreens must be included in the formula in a reduced percentage.
A Biofarma Group product that best embodies many of the characteristics described is Mineral Sun Care SPF 30, a spray sunscreen specifically formulated for all skin types, capable of exerting both protective and nourishing effects. The filters chosen and used are 100% mineral and therefore ‘sea - friendly’, to help protect both the skin and the environment. The result is a pleasant light, soft, velvety and water-resistant emulsion.
In addition to defining the benefits to be attributed to a sunscreen, the technology chosen for the product is equally important. From a technical point of view, different types of formulations can be produced. Biofarma Group, for example, includes in its product range: lipo-alcoholic solutions, oily solutions, emulsions, sticks and aerosol forms. Each of these presents advantages and criticalities that must be taken into account according to the customer's needs and the characteristics that one intends to confer on the product.
Lipo-alcoholic, oily solutions and sunscreen sticks have the advantage that they do not contain water and are therefore sustainable from a water-saving perspective. In addition, they do not require the presence of preservatives, which are often unwelcome by consumers due to their hazardous profile.
Stick Sun Protection, for example, is a solid-format sunscreen formulated to provide high or very high protection (SPF 30 and 50) from ultraviolet rays for limited and very sensitive areas of the face and body. Designed with a system of 4 sunscreens that protect against broad-spectrum UVA and UVB rays, it also contains several ingredients that give the formulation moisturising and emollient properties.
The emulsions, on the other hand, are considered particularly suitable for people with sensitive skin and allow the incorporation of water- and fat-soluble ingredients.
Finally, there is the spray sunscreen: Bag On Valve (BOV) aerosol products are considered eco-friendly as their propellant is compressed air. They are suitable for both emulsion, lipo-alcoholic and oily formulations. In addition, they allow for easy application thanks to their continuous dispensing and the possibility of holding the cylinder in a completely upside-down position.
Bov is the technology used for Transparent Spray, a sunscreen specifically formulated for the sensitive skin of adults and children. The product gives softness and elasticity to the skin thanks to the high concentration of valuable oils and helps to fight free radicals for better skin protection. The filters chosen and used are the latest, most advanced and ‘see-friendly’ on the market, to ensure protection of the environment as well. The product presents itself as a pleasant, light, soft and velvety transparent solution that is quickly absorbed and gives an intensely refreshing sensation.
Finally, there are the mousse sunscreen products, which are extremely pleasant to apply and are able to promote an even distribution of protection thanks to their high specific surface area.
One example is Scalp and Body Sun Protection 50+, a product formulated by Biofarma Group for the specific protection of the scalp. The spray has a cooling effect and protects against UVB and UVA rays for intensive protection of the affected area.
Edited by:
Sonia Cudrig - R&D Manager
